The manufacture of footwear remains a domain which is essentially manual. The process contains many different operations. These would be difficult to automate, they require a great deal of "savoir-faire". This even, more so in the manufacture of boots, especially those "made to measure".

This is a short guided tour :

DESIGN As in all fashion designing, the first step starts with a drawing. This drawing is then used as the basis for template preparation, these one prepares for all the elements required to manufacture the boot, i.e. upper, sole, heel, etc..   One of the key elements is the shape, it is the shape that will give the boot all its essential qualities, for the comfort of the wearer.   In the case of made to measure items, we use all of the information provided by the customer, preparing from this the unique templates for each element ; This is one of the most important phases in the manufacture, and is both highly skilled and extremely time consuming, the result is the comfort each wearer appreciates. This information is archieved, allowing us to prepare another pair of boots for your future use at any time. The craftsmans skill remains in his intimate knowledge of his art, something impossible to define simply on paper.

The RECEPTION and INSPECTION of HIDES The reception and inspection of hides Leather is of course fudamentally a natural product, so despite the care lavished by the tanneries, considerable variations in quality exist all too often. It is for this reason our quality control is so vigilant at the reception inspecting hides into our goods inward stores.

MANUFACTURING OPERATIONS CUTTING : Cutting is the first stage in the production cycle, each cut is made to suit the information contained in the technical file. The standard size and style are produced from pattern and press tooling. Made to measure being cut by hand using the prepared template.   Made to measure being cut by hand using the prepared template. The time consuming hand cutting contributes to cost differential between off the peg and made to measure.   STITCHING: Making a boot is to create a 3D volume from flat components using a natural leather material. To complete the stitching of a boot, over 25 different operations are required. The elements are assembled  one by one some of these are carried out in a flat plane, these are simplest ones, others are free form and require a great dead of "savoir-faire". Certainly at this point in time, no machine exists, capable of carrying out these operations. This remains then a hand finished task.     Experience, dexterity and care are key elements contributing to the quality of the products created by our craftmen and women. All of our boots are manufactured following these guide lines in our workshops at THE BOUPERE, in VENDEE, France. ASSEMBLING  : We prepare the soles ourselves prior to assembly operation. This is known as the "brooch" Because we carry out this operation ourselves we can offer the additional option of a translucent protective finish to the sole.   Next to the stitching, assembly is the most difficult operation. The first task is to join the upper to sole, incorrect assembly will result in creases being visible or the surface of the boot, or, and above all an uncomfortable fit, this will contribute to premature wear and failure of the boot. During the assembly, each craftsperson uses the detailed information provided to ensure each boot will provide the level of comfort expected from our quality product.   FINISH AND PACKING  : After the assembly has taken place, the finishing operations are carried out, the lining is hard pressed to ensure the smoothest finish. A polishing and feeding operation is carried out to clean and prepare the leather. The pressing and ironing of the surface of the boot assists the penetration of the polish and gives a uniform finish to the uppers. These operations are of course different for suede, varnished or Suede. All products are then wrapped in a top quality tissue paper and then boxed for dispatch.

All of the styles presented on this site are produced exclusively in leather.     The quality of leather is one of the principle determining factors in the manufacture of  a high quality boot. There are many different types of leather : Cow, calf, goat, pig and of course other more exotic products derived from lizard, snake, ostrich, toad, fish, etc.. The leather represents a major cost in the raw material element used in the manufacture of the footwear, regardless of style. Several methods of tanning exist, amongst these the processes insisting the use of vegetable materials, or chrome. Today tanneries are extremely aware of their responsability in the care of the environment. This historically has unfortunatly not always been the case. Stringent controls now exist and our leather is procured from these producers. Finally, there are many different uses for the various elements in a hide. The tougher areas are laminated to produce the different thickness. The par closest to the surface layer is known as the scat and is used in the manufacture of articles of lower quality. The "pleine fleur" layer is the most noble quality and is used in the preparation of quality products. Our range is produced essentially from the "pleine fleur" calf hide tanned with the chrome process with an anilane finish. We work 3 types of leather :   Smooth calf hide, "pleine fleur" calf hide that is immersed in a dye, with either an anilane or pigmented treatment to produce the smooth surface finish. Suede calf hide, this is also taken from the "pleine fleur" dyed to the desired colour, dried and palissonised. To create the unique texture, these hides are then polished. Varnished calf hide, this is created by adding a film of gloss varnish to produce the shining finish. All of these pertain to the external appearence of our products, we, of course, attach as much importance to the quality of linings, as they provide much of the comfort of the boot. The principle noble material chosen is high quality pig skin. After a great many years of experience, we have observed that the chrome tanning process is the one that produces the greatest suppleness and comfort. All the soles are produced in leather, it being the best breathable material available. As an option, the life span can be increased by the addition of a translucent sub-sole.